Walking the Land
of Light

Ersin Demirel

✍️ Editor’s Note:

This guide has been penned by our expert companion, Ersin Demirel. It serves as a bedside reference source for all nature lovers who want to understand the spirit of the Lycian Way, Turkey’s first long-distance walking route.

Introduction to the Lycian Way Adventure: Departing and Becoming Free

In today’s world, where traveling has now turned into a habit, the concept of “departing” is the most important feeling of freedom that individuals experience. Most of us live a mechanized life, a metropolitan slavery, a state of siege, and a life dominated by monotony. We choose the ease of standards and habits, gradually alienating ourselves from nature and from our own selves. Yet, the charm of traveling, the richness of getting to know distant places full of mysterious details and new people cannot be compared to anything.

Let’s say, on one of those days when work, love, and disappointments hurt you, spring arrived timelessly. What would you do? Wouldn’t an unexpected and unprepared travel fever fall inside you? This time, we will tell you about a different “way.” This is a way that is “just beginning” when you experience the feeling of reaching the exact destination, after you pack your things, spread the maps before you, make the plans that will kidnap you from big cities, jump into your vehicle, and cover long distances.

On another one of these departures, while wandering around Kaş, I encounter the Lycian Way signposts. A new wave of excitement fills my inside. I start researching and gathering information. The richness of coincidence brings Barış Doğru and Metin Yeğin before me. We form a team and begin preparations. The project was prepared by Kate Clow, a British citizen. The route, which is determined from beginning to end with an international marking system and signposts, holds the title of Turkey’s first marked longest trekking route.

The trail, adorned with historical and natural beauties, passes over old migration routes. The path starting from Ölüdeniz-Ovacık climbs hundreds of meters high from the hidden bays of the Mediterranean, hosts you in mysterious Lycian Ancient Cities, and ends in the Sarısu Neighborhood at the western entrance of the Antalya province.

From Fethiye to Kabak Bay: The Lycian Way Begins

We start the hike at dawn. The signpost at the “Montana Holiday Village” junction guides us. We slowly begin to ascend the path along the skirts of the majestic Mount Babadağ, which is 1,969 meters high. The view from this point, where Ölüdeniz gives postcards their images, is magnificent: the tone of the water turning from turquoise to deep navy, the ghost islands behind the golden crescent of Ölüdeniz, and further away, the silhouette of the Fethiye Gulf, almost like a lake… Around 1,000 meters we reach Karaağaç, then Kirme, and towards noon, we arrive in Faralya. Sitting on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Butterfly Valley, we enjoy freedom and nature.

After the lunch break, our target is Kabak Bay. We advance on the path with pine trees on one side and the Mediterranean on the other. The flower field in the Belen hamlet is enchanting; Barış immediately grabs his camera. As the sun is about to set, pristine Kabak Bay appears through the trees. While the indescribable blue of the sea hungrily swallows the redness of the sun, we rest our bodies in the cool waters.

Marching in Ancient Lands: From Sidyma to Xanthos

In the morning, we ascend to Alınca in three hours via the steep and challenging path between the trees. When we look from a bird’s-eye view from Kartalçimen hill, we see the waves reflecting the sun hitting the shore and the beach hidden behind the trees. Following the tea invitation of the village headman’s son, we continue our hike accompanied by the view of Pirate Bay (Balartlı beach), one of the lonely bays of the Mediterranean, and Yediburunlar. We wander around the ancient city of Sidyma, famous for its twin sarcophagi hidden among the mountains, and spend the night on the terrace of an empty house in the Bel neighborhood.

We wake up tired on the morning of the third day. A short while after setting out, Pydnai and Patara beach are laid before our eyes. Shortly after, we are in the ice-cold waters of the Özlen stream. Advancing on a sand-covered road among eucalyptus trees, we reach Letoon, one of the sacred cities of Lycia. The temples of Apollo and Artemis, the twins of Leto from Zeus, the god of gods, are side by side. Afterwards, another Lycian city, Xanthos… The city is known for its people’s devotion to freedom at the cost of their lives. You can find the detailed chronology of the region on our Lycian History page.

🏛️ The Lycian Way and Museum Pass Usage

You will need up-to-date Museum Pass (Müzekart) information to enter ancient cities like Patara, Myra, Xanthos, and Phaselis, which are located on the Lycian Way and mentioned in Ersin Demirel’s notes. You can visit the official T.R. Ministry of Culture and Tourism – Museum Pass website for 2026 museum entrance fees and online ticket transactions.

Between Kalkan and Kaş: The Secrets of Phellos and Bezirgan

The next day, our hike starting from Akbel continues with the unique view of Kalkan bays among flowers and maquis. We cannot hide our astonishment when we see Delikkemer, which was built hundreds of years ago to bring water to the city of Patara. We set the sun on Patara beach with its shallow waters that cannot cool us down.

We are high above sea level again. We advance along the old migration path used by villagers to go up to the alpine pasture (yayla) in summer. At the entrance of Bezirgan village, the granaries in the form of Lycian sarcophagi catch our interest. The fact that they were made by interlocking wooden pieces without using any nails makes them cultural monuments. The target is Kaş. We climb Eren Hill among bay laurel and wild strawberry trees, accompanied by the scent of thyme, and arrive at Phellos. Beneath us is the Çukurbağ pasture, and behind the hills ahead, the Mediterranean smiles at us with its endless blueness.

Kekova and Myra: From Sura, the City of Prophets, to Demre

From Limanağzı, we advance coast by coast on the sharp surface of the rocks: Shepherd’s beach, Ufakdere, and Uluburun, where the world’s oldest shipwreck was excavated… We visit the ancient city of Apollania in Boğaziçi village. The ancient city of Aperlai, hidden in the heart of the Sıçak peninsula, hosts countless broken and ruined sarcophagi, including one inside the sea.

After a breakfast with gözleme, we visit Teimiussa. Further ahead, Simena castle rises with all its majesty. In an exhausted state, we come to Sura, the city of prophets (oracles). According to the legend, prophets used to tell the future according to the type of fish that came to the surface of the water. The next day, we wander around Myra, one of the magnificent cities of Lycia, and leave Demre, the land of greenhouses. Now the most difficult part of the journey begins: the climb to Goncatepe at an altitude of 1,700 meters.

From Gelidonya Lighthouse to Olympos: The Heart of the Land of Light

Starting from Finike and entering the sea at Pirate Bay, we reach Gelidonya Lighthouse. We experience an atmosphere where words are inadequate. While Beşadalar darkens before us, the sun meets the sea by creating a riot of colors. I wish I could freeze time…

Markiztepe summit offers a delicious panorama: Finike, Kızlarsivrisi—the peak of the Beydağları—and the turquoise Mediterranean. The ascent of Mount Musa consumes all our energy. And finally, Olympos… We throw away all our tiredness on the pebbles of Çıralı beach. We advance to the Devil’s Cliffs and Kesme Boğaz via the three natural harbors of Phaselis. Details about the wildlife of the region are available on our Lycian Fauna page.

Climbing to the Summit: Mount Tahtalı and the Grand Final

Waking up with the first lights of the sun, we set out towards the 2,366-meter summit. Since the air is not humid, the view is extraordinary: the entire gulf from Antalya to Gelidonya Lighthouse is before us. In this part of the mountain, we cross paths with nomads; they are gathering thyme. The dominance of cedar trees begins again; we introduced these centuries-old trees in our Lycian Flora guide.

Our last day… Starting from Göynük stream, we arrive at Elmayani fountain. The climb is tiring, the soil is constantly sliding. We enter Hisarçandır. The route offers two alternatives here. We choose the Sarısu bus stop parkour via Üçsöğüt Pasture. Now the dream is over… Words are sometimes inadequate to express what has been experienced. You also need to experience this unique adventure to feel the mystery of the Lycian land and the summit of Tahtalı.

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